Its a generally accepted travel rule that one doesn't cross an international border without some forethought or research, but here I was blazing ahead into Canada without really checking on money, laws, insurance, or phone issues. This would come back to later bite me in the derrière. Crossing the border into Canada was a pleasant and efficient endeavor, and they didn't even make me take my helmet off. Traffic into Vancouver was an ooze that made up for any time gained at the border, and Mark and I struck up some conversation with fellow bikers in between bow-legged promenades. These lovely Canucks were very friendly and put my mind at ease for the journey ahead. The traffic dissipated and we rolled over the bridge into Vancouver. It was immediately apparent that the population was largely Asian, both because of the language of the signs, and the people walking around. We were later informed that Vancouver has received the nickname of "Honkouver."
We arrived in Downtown "Van" with a plan to find a cheap hostel, only to discover that such a commodity was unavailable on such short notice. Afterwards, while dipping and ducking through downtown traffic, we managed to lose track of each other. I saw a spot to park, and found that my phone was now useless for its original purpose. I went into a restaurant to use their phone and wifi to try and contact Mark, all to no avail. At this point I was beginning to become a bit worried, and decided to stay hunkered down and hope for the best. It was only by spotting the sparkly helmet in traffic and flailing madly in his direction that we were able to reconnect. We found a place to stay the night through a friend of Mark's and turned in. After such an eventful first day in Canada, we were both beat.
We arrived in Downtown "Van" with a plan to find a cheap hostel, only to discover that such a commodity was unavailable on such short notice. Afterwards, while dipping and ducking through downtown traffic, we managed to lose track of each other. I saw a spot to park, and found that my phone was now useless for its original purpose. I went into a restaurant to use their phone and wifi to try and contact Mark, all to no avail. At this point I was beginning to become a bit worried, and decided to stay hunkered down and hope for the best. It was only by spotting the sparkly helmet in traffic and flailing madly in his direction that we were able to reconnect. We found a place to stay the night through a friend of Mark's and turned in. After such an eventful first day in Canada, we were both beat.
The next few days we spent exploring Vancouver, checking out the waterfalls of Lynn Canyon in Northern Van, eating poutine, and getting our bikes in order. The Couchsurfing host we stayed a few nights with lived downtown, and this did not leave me many options of easy places to figure out why my trusty steed was having issues starting and to change her oil. While Mark was discovering how difficult it can be to have a Harley worked on, I was playing mechanic in an alley. I had solved the starting issue (common problem with Shadows that stems from the design of the headlight and start button), and was just starting the process of the oil change when a gentleman crumbled through a pile of boxes in a doorway to tumble my direction and offer assistance. His entrance on the scene made it immediately apparent that he was intoxicated, and was thus not getting anywhere near my baby. I waved him on, and promptly finished the job. Our last night in Vancouver, I made Mark and our host the good old tomato soup and grilled cheese for one last hurrah before continuing the journey north. It's amazing how much one can relish human connection when it becomes a rare occurrence.
I was once again missing a pride celebration, but this time I was a week ahead of the party. They were putting up decorations as we rode out of Vancouver toward the ferry. This was my first time taking a bike on a ferry, and I was overzealous in my concern for her safety. Mark laughed as I fretted over the bike tipping, and he did so justly. We hardly felt the boat move the entire 2 hour ride. While trying to grab a bite on the boat, it became apparent that a Visa debit card is a whole different class of payment in Canada that many do not accept. Unfortunately this was my only method of payment, and it was by the grace of Mark more than a few times that I was able to grab food. We arrived on Vancouver Island and headed for a coffee shop in Victoria where Mark's friend that we were to stay with was slinging caffeine.
Imagine a woman with a disposition sweeter than honey with an exterior just as lovely. Now imagine that woman with ink all over and riding a beast of a Harley and you'd have Cay. She showed us around the picturesque Victoria as well as the Royal Roads University which was used as the set for Professor X's school in X-Men. It has a much better view than they show in the movies. On the last day with Cay, she was going to take us to a swimming hole, but it ended up raining. At her suggestion we baked several batches of gingerbread cookies and watched movies all day. Knowing how cold the water probably would have been, I found this to be an excellent distraction from the plan change. The next morning we packed the bikes, and Cay rode with us halfway to the ferry. We got back to the mainland just as a giant rainstorm was about to hit Vancouver, so we decided to head north as quickly as possible.
Imagine a woman with a disposition sweeter than honey with an exterior just as lovely. Now imagine that woman with ink all over and riding a beast of a Harley and you'd have Cay. She showed us around the picturesque Victoria as well as the Royal Roads University which was used as the set for Professor X's school in X-Men. It has a much better view than they show in the movies. On the last day with Cay, she was going to take us to a swimming hole, but it ended up raining. At her suggestion we baked several batches of gingerbread cookies and watched movies all day. Knowing how cold the water probably would have been, I found this to be an excellent distraction from the plan change. The next morning we packed the bikes, and Cay rode with us halfway to the ferry. We got back to the mainland just as a giant rainstorm was about to hit Vancouver, so we decided to head north as quickly as possible.
The 99 highway from Vancouver to Lillooet is the most spectacular bit of pavement I have ever had the privilege of experiencing. To your left you have beryl tinged ocean punctuated with lofty islands on which to feast your eyes. To your right you have immense mountains that forcibly remind you how tiny you really are, cloaked in pines of similar proportions. We rode through the twists and turns up into the mountains, got caught up in an Iron Man triathlon in Whistler, past Duffey Lake, and all the way to 100 Mile House. We met up with another of Mark's friends who showed us to a campsite right by the water of Green Lake. It was here I saw the Aurora Borealis for the first time in my life (even if they were faint) as well as a sunset lasting past 10 pm. British Columbia's natural beauty has stayed beautiful. It helps that the entire country of Canada has less people than the state of California.
After looking at the calendar, I realized we weren't making good enough time for me to make it up to Alaska and back down to San Francisco in time for Burning Man. It was here that I had to part ways with Mark and head south again. I'm very grateful I made the decision to go with Mark and get as far north as I did. All of the Canadians I met were unquestioningly welcoming, and were a pleasure to be around. British Columbia was a place of many firsts, and I can't get back soon enough.
After looking at the calendar, I realized we weren't making good enough time for me to make it up to Alaska and back down to San Francisco in time for Burning Man. It was here that I had to part ways with Mark and head south again. I'm very grateful I made the decision to go with Mark and get as far north as I did. All of the Canadians I met were unquestioningly welcoming, and were a pleasure to be around. British Columbia was a place of many firsts, and I can't get back soon enough.